In case you looked at my last post, featuring the print that I designed and had custom printed, and wondered what on earth anyone would do with such a print, here’s the answer. A menswear-style tailored jacket.
The pattern I used was Burdastyle 1/2010 119. I re-drafted the back piece to eliminate the center back seam so I would not have to break up the skull motif that I so painstakingly constructed. I also re-drafted the collar and lapel for turn of cloth. I block fused the linen cotton canvas that I used with a weft insertion interfacing to make it tailor better.
After working with this fabric, I wholeheartedly recommend it. This linen-cotton canvas has a great hand, and it tailors like a dream. I ran it through my washer once, with no noticeable change in color. It is a little expensive, but I’m old enough to remember a time when custom printed fabric was something that I could only dream about. The fact that I can get it at any reasonable price still seems miraculous to me.
The print is up for sale at myfabricdesigns.com. The jacket took 3 yards of the linen/cotton canvas. I found that I really did need all 3 yards, because of the extra fabric needed to match the large-scale print. Just so you know, myfabricdesigns contacted me and offered to let me try their service for free, so the fabric I used was complimentary. Also, if you buy my print, I will get a small percentage of the purchase price.
back view
undercollar in necktie silk
side view
pocket detail
silk satin pocket flap facings
collar detail. The orange things on the print are goldfish
silk charmeuse lining
back view, on me
front view, on me.
Rolling in Cloth 
33 Comments
Absolutely stunning! You did an amazing job, BRAVO!
Thanks!
There is a terrific show right now in Washington at the Renwick Gallery (part of the Smithsonian) – a room with the walls decorated with real insect bodies in designs that remind me of your fabric…..both lovely.
ceci
Thanks for the heads up. That’s right up my alley.
Beautifully made jacket and perfect use of the unusual print.
Thank you.
Man, it’s way, way more fantastic than creepy. Love it!
Thanks!
I love it so much and I am very tempted to be a copy cat and make it.
There is nothing I would like more.
You have an amazing vision. The finished jacket is fabulous.
Thanks!
Beautiful and stunning as always. I admire your vision and craftsmanship, kudos!
Thank you.
Amazing, as always. I particularly like the ‘V’ detail at the upper back. Oh, and I’m definitely stealing your necktie undercollar one of these days!
Thanks! As you can probably tell, the V was kind of like a yoke, to accommodate the curve of the back. I had to cut the back piece into 3 to keep the shaping in the original pattern.
Gorgeous! And I don’t think it’s creepy at all. Wonderful details making a beautiful garment. Wear with pride.
Fabulous work, Claudine! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks!
Absolute perfection! I love the skull motif in a floral–delicate and feminine and morbid, all at once! (I do mean that in the most complimentary way.) Excellent work, as always!
Thanks! Delicate and feminine and morbid, all at once was exactly the vibe I was going for.
How was this fabric to work with. It sounds as if it would be stiff. The jacket is beautiful.
It was really nice to work with. It’s not particularly stiff, but if I were to choose to describe it as “stiff” or “soft”, I would choose stiff. It got a little softer in the wash.
For tailoring, it definitely requires an underlining. I fused the whole thing with a fusible weft. This is certainly not bad. I fuse or underline almost all of the fabrics that I use for tailoring.
A lovely jacket, the combination of the tailored cut with the floral is perfect.
Stunning jacket, your fabric works beautifully with the design.
Wow, that is so unique, so beautiful.
I have been enthralled by the postings on the fabric and then the making up of this beautifully tailored jacket.
I wish that we had companies in the U.K. that provided the design service for fabrics…buying from the USA is expensive if shipped to the U.K. and then sadly, they charge customs duties on top.
Love your design!
The jacket fits beautifully and looks great. You did a great job!
The back seaming is so complimentary and works so well with the motifs. I too was intrigued with your silk tie under-collar…very clever! Such a great experiment and with free fabric…a win/win!
Very cool! You did a beautiful job with the tailoring. I didn’t notice the back triangle until you pointed it out to me.
Truly amazing both in fabric design and blazer construction. You are one talented lady!
Claudine, this is one of the most expertly tailored jackets I’ve seen online in a long time. Would it be too much trouble to ask what your method for setting in sleeves is? Those seamlines are exquisite! No puckers at all!!! Beautiful.
Thanks! To set in the sleeves, I use a lot of pins to distribute the fullness, then I use my fingers to kind of flatten out the fullness as I’m stitching. If I recall correctly, I think I put sleeve heads in this jacket, as well, to keep the sleeve from collapsing.
Hope this helps!