Creepy Floral

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In case you looked at my last post, featuring the print that I designed and had custom printed, and wondered what on earth anyone would do with such a print, here’s the answer. A menswear-style tailored jacket.

The pattern I used was Burdastyle 1/2010 119. I re-drafted the back piece to eliminate the center back seam so I would not have to break up the skull motif that I so painstakingly constructed. I also re-drafted the collar and lapel for turn of cloth. I block fused the linen cotton canvas that I used with a weft insertion interfacing to make it tailor better.

After working with this fabric, I wholeheartedly recommend it. This linen-cotton canvas has a great hand, and it tailors like a dream. I ran it through my washer once, with no noticeable change in color. It is a little expensive, but I’m old enough to remember a time when custom printed fabric was something that I could only dream about. The fact that I can get it at any reasonable price still seems miraculous to me.

The print is up for sale at myfabricdesigns.com. The jacket took 3 yards of the linen/cotton canvas. I found that I really did need all 3 yards, because of the extra fabric needed to match the large-scale print. Just so you know, myfabricdesigns contacted me and offered to let me try their service for free, so the fabric I used was complimentary. Also, if you buy my print, I will get a small percentage of the purchase price.

back view

back view

undercollar in necktie silk

undercollar in necktie silk

side view

side view

pocket detail

pocket detail

silk satin pocket flap facings

silk satin pocket flap facings

collar detail.  The orange things on the print are goldfish

collar detail. The orange things on the print are goldfish

silk charmeuse lining

silk charmeuse lining

back view, on me

back view, on me

front view, on me.

front view, on me.

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33 Comments

  1. Posted January 29, 2016 at 5:22 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Absolutely stunning! You did an amazing job, BRAVO!

  2. ceci
    Posted January 29, 2016 at 5:23 pm | Permalink | Reply

    There is a terrific show right now in Washington at the Renwick Gallery (part of the Smithsonian) – a room with the walls decorated with real insect bodies in designs that remind me of your fabric…..both lovely.

    ceci

    • Posted January 29, 2016 at 5:42 pm | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks for the heads up. That’s right up my alley.

  3. Posted January 29, 2016 at 5:56 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Beautifully made jacket and perfect use of the unusual print.

  4. Posted January 29, 2016 at 6:35 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Man, it’s way, way more fantastic than creepy. Love it!

  5. Posted January 29, 2016 at 6:46 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I love it so much and I am very tempted to be a copy cat and make it.

  6. Posted January 29, 2016 at 10:54 pm | Permalink | Reply

    You have an amazing vision. The finished jacket is fabulous.

  7. Anke
    Posted January 30, 2016 at 3:43 am | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful and stunning as always. I admire your vision and craftsmanship, kudos!

  8. Posted January 30, 2016 at 5:47 am | Permalink | Reply

    Amazing, as always. I particularly like the ‘V’ detail at the upper back. Oh, and I’m definitely stealing your necktie undercollar one of these days!

    • Posted January 30, 2016 at 9:02 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! As you can probably tell, the V was kind of like a yoke, to accommodate the curve of the back. I had to cut the back piece into 3 to keep the shaping in the original pattern.

  9. Posted January 30, 2016 at 6:19 am | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous! And I don’t think it’s creepy at all. Wonderful details making a beautiful garment. Wear with pride.

  10. Posted January 30, 2016 at 7:05 am | Permalink | Reply

    Fabulous work, Claudine! Thanks for sharing!

  11. Posted January 30, 2016 at 8:58 am | Permalink | Reply

    Absolute perfection! I love the skull motif in a floral–delicate and feminine and morbid, all at once! (I do mean that in the most complimentary way.) Excellent work, as always!

    • Posted January 30, 2016 at 9:03 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! Delicate and feminine and morbid, all at once was exactly the vibe I was going for.

  12. Posted January 30, 2016 at 11:48 am | Permalink | Reply

    How was this fabric to work with. It sounds as if it would be stiff. The jacket is beautiful.

    • Posted January 30, 2016 at 12:17 pm | Permalink | Reply

      It was really nice to work with. It’s not particularly stiff, but if I were to choose to describe it as “stiff” or “soft”, I would choose stiff. It got a little softer in the wash.

      For tailoring, it definitely requires an underlining. I fused the whole thing with a fusible weft. This is certainly not bad. I fuse or underline almost all of the fabrics that I use for tailoring.

  13. Posted January 30, 2016 at 1:21 pm | Permalink | Reply

    A lovely jacket, the combination of the tailored cut with the floral is perfect.

  14. Posted January 30, 2016 at 3:33 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Stunning jacket, your fabric works beautifully with the design.

  15. Vicki
    Posted January 30, 2016 at 3:43 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Wow, that is so unique, so beautiful.

  16. marysiap
    Posted February 1, 2016 at 7:20 am | Permalink | Reply

    I have been enthralled by the postings on the fabric and then the making up of this beautifully tailored jacket.

    I wish that we had companies in the U.K. that provided the design service for fabrics…buying from the USA is expensive if shipped to the U.K. and then sadly, they charge customs duties on top.

    Love your design!

  17. Sue
    Posted February 1, 2016 at 11:58 am | Permalink | Reply

    The jacket fits beautifully and looks great. You did a great job!

  18. Posted February 2, 2016 at 5:54 am | Permalink | Reply

    The back seaming is so complimentary and works so well with the motifs. I too was intrigued with your silk tie under-collar…very clever! Such a great experiment and with free fabric…a win/win!

  19. Posted February 2, 2016 at 8:59 am | Permalink | Reply

    Very cool! You did a beautiful job with the tailoring. I didn’t notice the back triangle until you pointed it out to me.

  20. Posted February 16, 2016 at 9:25 am | Permalink | Reply

    Truly amazing both in fabric design and blazer construction. You are one talented lady!

  21. Kim
    Posted June 2, 2016 at 9:03 am | Permalink | Reply

    Claudine, this is one of the most expertly tailored jackets I’ve seen online in a long time. Would it be too much trouble to ask what your method for setting in sleeves is? Those seamlines are exquisite! No puckers at all!!! Beautiful.

    • Posted June 2, 2016 at 9:12 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! To set in the sleeves, I use a lot of pins to distribute the fullness, then I use my fingers to kind of flatten out the fullness as I’m stitching. If I recall correctly, I think I put sleeve heads in this jacket, as well, to keep the sleeve from collapsing.
      Hope this helps!

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