Winter Weight, Spring Color

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I am such a sucker for these Chado Ralph Rucci designs! That shoulder line gets me every time. The pattern I used was part of the new Vogue releases, 1437.

The pattern calls for a rather involved self-lining technique. Because I’m using a heavyweight fabric, I chose to forgo the self-lining. And because the fabric does not fray, I decided that it would not need a lining at all. I’m sure that the recommended lining technique from the pattern directions would result in a lovely finish, but for this fabric at this point in my life, I skipped it.

For an edge finish, I pinked and graded the seam allowances, then turned them to the side and topstitched. The fabric does not fray at all, so this finish will hold up fine.

I picked up the fabric at an estate sale. It has a terrific weight and hand. However, it was a terrible mustard yellow color from the 1980’s. So, I figured I would try to dye it, and it came out great! It’s probably a wool blend rather than 100%, because it handled the washer and dryer like a champ. I had to put it in the dryer because of the possibility of bedbugs.

EDIT A couple of people mentioned in the comments that they are interested in my dye process, so here’s some info. I did not want to go into the dye process, because I totally messed it up, so my results are probably not replicable. I used “moss green” acid dye from Dharma Trading. BUT I have a brand-new washing machine, and I am not yet entirely familiar with its workings. So, when I was dyeing the fabric, the dye bath water started draining WAY too soon and there was nothing I could do to stop it. I had to add the vinegar to the rinse cycle, rather than add it to the dye cycle. It turned out a lovely color, just lighter than I originally intended.

Side view.  I love the length differential front to back.

Side view. I love the length differential front to back.

back view.

back view.

I added a closure, which was not called for in the pattern directions.  I really dislike jackets without closures.

I added a closure, which was not called for in the pattern directions. I really dislike jackets without closures.

I dyed the hook and eye to match, more or less.

I dyed the hook and eye to match, more or less.

Inside view.  I pinked and graded the seam allowances, turned them to the side, and topstitched.

Inside view. I pinked and graded the seam allowances, turned them to the side, and topstitched.

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21 Comments

  1. Posted March 6, 2015 at 10:41 am | Permalink | Reply

    Intrepid is the word I thought of reading this. Hate mustard, so you just dyed it. What color did you use to over dye your mustard colored wool to this lovely spring green?
    It’s a terrific jacket. I’d love to see some pictures of you wearing it.

    • Posted March 6, 2015 at 10:47 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks!

      I did not want to go into the dye process, because I totally messed it up, so my results are probably not replicable. I used “moss green” acid dye from Dharma Trading. BUT I have a brand-new washing machine, and I am not yet entirely familiar with its workings. So, when I was dyeing the fabric, the dye bath water started draining WAY too soon and there was nothing I could do to stop it. I had to add the vinegar to the rinse cycle, rather than add it to the dye cycle. It turned out a lovely color, just lighter than I originally intended.

      • Posted March 6, 2015 at 12:18 pm | Permalink

        I love that you took a chance and dyed the fabric.
        I haven’t been able to devise a way of using the washing machine that came with our new condo. It’s a top loader that locks automatically. Google searches didn’t reveal a hack (it is computerized, so there is more to it than disabling something mechanical). I told my husband I need a different washing machine so I can start dyeing fabric and he seemed to think that was reasonable.
        Great jacket, too.

  2. Posted March 6, 2015 at 11:11 am | Permalink | Reply

    Love it! The colour is gorgeous even if not as intended.

  3. Brenda
    Posted March 6, 2015 at 11:31 am | Permalink | Reply

    Exquisite workmanship! Your seam finishing is beautiful!

  4. Anke
    Posted March 6, 2015 at 11:31 am | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful! I like the idea of grading and pinking the seam allowances, it is a clean finish. Any chance to see this lovely jacket on you?

    • Posted March 6, 2015 at 2:17 pm | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I’ll try to get a photo of me on my Instagram when I wear it.

  5. Posted March 6, 2015 at 11:57 am | Permalink | Reply

    Oh, I love this! Such a pretty style and I always find myself craving green this time of year. Just beautiful!

  6. Posted March 6, 2015 at 12:28 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Everything you make is magic!

  7. Posted March 6, 2015 at 2:26 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Wow that is amazing looking! Please model the jacket for us and if possible try a few shots moving your arms around. From the pattern photos I’ve been curious about the mobility of the design and what it would look like. Thanks.

    • Posted March 6, 2015 at 2:31 pm | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks for bringing that up. It’s not like you totally can’t move your arms at all, but arm movement is mildly restricted when wearing a top with a shoulder like this one. If you lift your arm too high, you will rip a seam. Ask me how I know.

      You can definitely lift your arms like maybe 90 degrees, but if you need to lift them above your shoulder, you need to be careful.

  8. Posted March 6, 2015 at 3:14 pm | Permalink | Reply

    You should add the dye info to the post because it was interesting. I’ve watched this come together on Instagram and am thrilled to see it finished…it is amazing!

    • Posted March 6, 2015 at 5:44 pm | Permalink | Reply

      You’re right, I should. So I did.

      I’m glad you like the in-progress photos on IG. I really like it when people post those, but it occurred to me that I might be boring my followers to tears with this project. But then again, they know how to unfollow if they want to.

  9. Posted March 6, 2015 at 3:20 pm | Permalink | Reply

    The shape and seaming are divine! I love it so much. I am running out to grab this pattern right now…great job!

  10. Posted March 6, 2015 at 4:18 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Simply divine! The color, although not what was intended, is beautiful, and your work is impeccable. I also have this pattern and hope to be brave enough to attempt it before too long. Thank you for sharing your version!

  11. Posted March 6, 2015 at 9:24 pm | Permalink | Reply

    That is my favorite color. How nice that you ended up with a pleasant surprise. I’ve always had good luck with Dharma’s acid dyes, but rarely use my machine. Afraid of ruining future wash loads. Which has happened.

    The jacket is gorgeous, and I like it even better than the pattern photos.

  12. Posted March 6, 2015 at 9:33 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I like it better than the original on the pattern!

  13. Shams
    Posted March 7, 2015 at 3:29 am | Permalink | Reply

    Very nice, Claudine! I especially love the color and the seaming details. Congrats on the dye job, even if you messed it up. 🙂

  14. Posted March 7, 2015 at 7:20 am | Permalink | Reply

    This is just beautiful. The color plus all the curving seams reminds me of new leaves unfurling. Love it!

  15. Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted March 7, 2015 at 3:23 pm | Permalink | Reply

    that looks so pretty and definitely spring ready. Hope the season arrives for you on the east coast soon. I have been tempted by that designer but so far been a bit lazy and not made any, yours looks so distinctive I might try one.

  16. Posted March 8, 2015 at 5:13 pm | Permalink | Reply

    This is really wonderful, Claudine. It is so much prettier made up than what shows on the pattern envelope. I nevere realized the back was so pretty. Lovely work, as always and the dying looks great.

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