Melton fun

melton-coat-1043

This is a project that I have been planning for a while. It all started during a shopping trip to the Dover Street Market in NYC in the summertime. I had been to the DSM in London, but the New York outpost was new to me, and it has some covetable merchandise. And the staff is lovely. Really, just a great place to spend an hour. Anyway, they had a display of pea coat-style coats with flared skirts that just looked so cool that I felt I had to have one. If I recall correctly, one was in wool melton and the other was in shearling. I decided to go with melton.

Then, just as I was starting this project, the Milan Fashion shows were going on, and I saw that Prada was showing black with bright white topstitching for Spring 15. It seemed like just what my new coat needs, so I figured, “why not?”

Probably not coincidentally considering my new obsession with Instagram, this project lends itself well to quick snaps of my progress. See some photos of my process at Rollingincloth, or look under #woolmeltoncoat. So far, I am the only one using that hashtag.

I constructed the entire coat with lapped seams. I did not want to deal with the bulk of turn-of-cloth with such a bulky fabric. I can get away with this partly because this melton frays very little, so it should be fairly stable. The only problem with this construction method is that it was very, very difficult to set in the sleeves. If I do this again, I think I will use normal seams for the armscye.

I sewed each seam twice. First, I sewed from the right side using black thread. Then, I sewed from the wrong side using 4 strands of silk embroidery floss in the bobbin and white thread at the top. This method allowed me to achieve the look of very heavy topstitching using a regular home machine.

The project is based on a commercial pattern, Marfy 2572. Initially, I was not happy about paying $27 with shipping for a pattern, but I looked everywhere and this was the only pattern that was close enough to what I wanted. In retrospect, it was totally worth the money. It fits just the way I want it to. I followed the pattern from the waist up, and made some changes to the skirt part.

back view

back view

side view

side view

bound buttonholes, buttoned, unbuttoned, and wrong side.  I used silk satin for the buttonhole lips to reduce bulk.

bound buttonholes, buttoned, unbuttoned, and wrong side. I used silk satin for the buttonhole lips to reduce bulk.

welt pocket.  The welt itself in silk satin

welt pocket. The welt itself in silk satin

embroidered silk duchesse satin lining.

embroidered silk duchesse satin lining.

embroidery motif on the lining

embroidery motif on the lining

collar

collar

undercollar

undercollar

cuff button

cuff button

cuff buttonhole

cuff buttonhole

Prada coat from Spring 2015 collection.  I liked the topstitching, and wanted to do something similar.  Photo from style.com

Prada coat from Spring 2015 collection. I liked the topstitching, and wanted to do something similar. Photo from style.com

This is the embroidery floss I used for the light-colored stitching.  It is a variegated 12-strand silk embroidery floss in pale colors.  I used 4 strands in the bobbin.

This is the embroidery floss I used for the light-colored stitching. It is a variegated 12-strand silk embroidery floss in pale colors. I used 4 strands in the bobbin.

Marfy 2572

Marfy 2572

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27 Comments

  1. Posted October 3, 2014 at 11:12 am | Permalink | Reply

    Lovely.

    > I used 4 strands in the bobbin.
    Let me get this right. You did that impeccable topstitching from the underside? How? X-ray vision?

    • Posted October 3, 2014 at 11:15 am | Permalink | Reply

      I did the stitching from the top first, using black thread. Then I followed the black stitching from the underside to get the topstitched effect.

  2. Posted October 3, 2014 at 11:28 am | Permalink | Reply

    It’s a beautiful work of art, Claudine. All the details are impeccable.

  3. Posted October 3, 2014 at 3:03 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Claudine, this is a really fabulous coat! Very chic and elegant.

  4. Posted October 3, 2014 at 5:04 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I want to lose 50 lbs and come live in your closet. That is all.

  5. Posted October 3, 2014 at 9:13 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous! Love the cut of the pattern, and your unique way of interpreting it.

  6. Mem
    Posted October 3, 2014 at 10:00 pm | Permalink | Reply

    That is beautiful . How’d many bobbins of floss did you use . I am having visions of you surrounded by fulminating floss as you separated the strands and wound them on to the bobbin by hand of did you use your machine ? It was worth the effort though !

    • Posted October 4, 2014 at 8:35 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I was not counting the bobbins, but it was a lot. I used 2 full skeins of floss. I wound them by hand because the machine would have stretched the thread too much and it would have pulled at the seams. The separating of the threads was difficult at first, but I found out after a while that there’s a trick to it that is hard to describe without a visual. You have to figure out which strands want to go together and pull them off together.

      • Mem
        Posted October 4, 2014 at 10:07 am | Permalink

        I am in even great awe! I do know what you mean about some threads wanting to be together.

  7. Beth (SunnyGal Studio)
    Posted October 3, 2014 at 10:35 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Hi Claudine, what a fantastic coat. So sharp and I was just looking at the spring collections yesterday and noticed the top stitched coats you mention. What a great interpretation.

  8. Carolyn
    Posted October 4, 2014 at 12:49 am | Permalink | Reply

    I’ve watched the progress of this coat…and yet again I marvel at your creative choices! How you think things out…how you execute the idea…and the amazingly awesome results! This coat is a delicious work of art. Again I stand in awe of your creative mind!

    • Posted October 4, 2014 at 8:38 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I had a great time charting my progress on IG, but I did get a little afraid that I might be boring people to tears with yet another photo of the same coat. Then again, I’m not forcing anyone to pay attention.

  9. Posted October 4, 2014 at 5:57 am | Permalink | Reply

    Not one, but two great coats recently! I love the seam finish on this.

  10. Posted October 4, 2014 at 8:29 am | Permalink | Reply

    So stylish! And creative! And inspiring! But I want to see you modeling it! 🙂

    • Posted October 4, 2014 at 8:36 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I’ll try to get a photo on IG when it get a little colder and I wear it.

  11. Shams
    Posted October 4, 2014 at 9:25 am | Permalink | Reply

    Yes, that is gorgeous and the top-stitching just elevates it to some crazy new level! One of my favorite pair of pants is black denim with cream top-stitching. I just love that graphic effect!

  12. Posted October 4, 2014 at 10:09 am | Permalink | Reply

    A little bit of perfection! Loving it!!!

  13. Posted October 4, 2014 at 11:05 am | Permalink | Reply

    Well, I think all the superlatives have already been used so I’ll just say that you set the bar pretty high for the rest of us!

  14. Posted October 4, 2014 at 8:54 pm | Permalink | Reply

    gorgeous Claudine, and I love seeing that quilt hanging behind it.

  15. Elizabeth
    Posted October 5, 2014 at 12:21 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous! Absolutely gorgeous!

  16. Posted October 5, 2014 at 1:07 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Wonderful coat. The overlap seaming gives it a different look which I like, and the topstitching is fabulous.

  17. Posted October 11, 2014 at 7:44 am | Permalink | Reply

    Many stealable details, mentally bookmarked ! Lovely.

    • Posted October 11, 2014 at 8:16 am | Permalink | Reply

      Please steal my details! If you do and if you can remember to leave a link here, I would love to see your interpretations.

  18. Posted October 21, 2014 at 1:46 pm | Permalink | Reply

    What a beautiful coat! The details are stunning and really make it stand out. I’m planning on make a coat this winter with welt pockets and bound buttonholes, which I’ve never attempted before. I’m sort of nervous but if they come out anything like yours they will be well worth it! The price of Marfy patterns gets me too, but sometimes they’re just too beautiful to turn down. I made my Homecoming dress from a Marfy pattern I just couldn’t resist (here’s a link http://anelisemadeit.blogspot.com/2014/10/Marfy-homecoming-dress.html) Great coat!

  19. Posted November 17, 2014 at 8:14 am | Permalink | Reply

    This coat and it’s work are stunning, Claudine. Beautiful details and such thought put into your processes.

  20. Posted December 2, 2014 at 4:06 am | Permalink | Reply

    That’s one seriously wonderful coat.

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