Ta-Daaa! Just in time for the holiday party season, my new trench! I really love it.
The fabric is silk duchesse satin, which is a beautiful fabric to work with. There are many good reasons why silk duchesse satin is a staple of luxury evening wear. It tailors like a dream, you can mold it into all kinds of shapes, and it appears to be lit from within. If you ever see it on a remnant table, snap it up and play with it.
The lining is a silk gazar. It has a nice texture and a nice firm hand, in keeping with the military cut of the coat. I underlined the silk satin with cotton twill.
The pattern is the trench coat pattern from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. I used the same pattern for my raincoat I lengthened it and added godets to the back seams so it looks more feminine. One of my favorite things about this pattern is the armhole and sleeve draft. I almost always raise the armhole and narrow the sleeve in every pattern that I sew, but I did not have to do that for this one. The armhole is nice and high and the sleeve is narrow. I also love the curve of the sleeve, which follows the curve of the arm nicely.
For the rose print, I took some images from the web and poked and prodded them in Photoshop to get an effect that I liked. Then I screen printed them onto the fabric. Some of the flowers are printed directly onto the coat pieces, and some are appliqued on. I used Versatex ink from Dharma, which has an amazing hand. I also printed the motif on the lining in white ink.
For all of the posts I have done about this coat, click here.
back view
I added godets to the pattern for some swing in the back
side view. Note the curve of the sleeve, which makes it comfortable to wear.
side view
epaulet
epaulet. I could not pick which epaulet photo I liked better, so you have 2.
front view, buttoned up all the way
The metal buttons have a steampunk vibe. I bought them from the Etsy seller Lyanwood.
cuff detail
an appliqued flower next to one that’s printed onto the coat fabric.
godet
inside pocket
Here’s the hem. I underlined the coat with cotton twill, and hemmed the lining by hand.
lining
This photo is cluttered, but I like the light
Rolling in Cloth 
34 Comments
OMG, that is gorgeous! Give yourself a pat on the back.
What an amazing coat! Beautifully made and the swing from the back godet is lovely. I was wondering if you drafted the trench pattern yourself or adjusted a commercial pattern to achieve your inspiration? Enjoy wearing your beautiful coat 🙂
Thanks! I started with a commercial pattern published in Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. The book is in Japanese.
That is a beautiful, unique item. I love that you have appliquéd some roses and printed others directly. The white rose on the lining is also lovely.
adorable!!!
xoxo
blanca
Gorgeous! If you have any remnants remaining, how about a matching bag?
Wow, you really have created a beautiful unique garment. Fabulous!
Beautiful coat! Pat on the back deserved. I hope you get lots of pleasure every time you wear it 🙂
Absolutely gorgeous!
This is beautiful, and deserves an Oscar for coatmaking 🙂
I am totally amazed – not just the execution of such perfect item but the imagination and the thoroughness of planning and application to make your imagination reality. Truly, truly amazing!
beautiful!
awesome! this one is really lovely & so glamorous looking!
It is just stunning, Claudine. You are an inspiration!
OUTSTANDING in every detail! Very well done!
Brilliant! Oscar worthy…love to see a photo of this beauty being worn.
As always, exquisite work.
Beautiful coat and excellent work! Looks like you purchased it off the Rack!
Claudine, you never disappoint! Stunning coat!
Simply gorgeous!
Wow, this is so amazing. It has the “bells and whistles” of a trench coat and then some!!! Thanks for sharing your button source. They’re fabulous.
Wow! That is a work of art. What an amazing level of craftsmanship .
that is fantastic and will look great on you. a piece to keep and wear forever.
Claudine, you’ve made a master piece of art again. Love all your detail photos. What a fabulous garment. And I must say, I like the 2nd epaulet photo – it just captures the light and details so very well. You will be the star of your holiday parties in this! I love working with silk duchesse, too, although I rarely see it on remnant tables. And I’ve never even touched silk gazar, so I have no idea of how it handles. I’m surprised at the cotton twill for your underlining. I would have thought that would be too heavy. And that’s why I love your posts – I’m always learning something new. Enjoy your new trench!
*clap, clap, clap* Your coat deserves a standing ovation! It is absolutely marvelous!
Oh my, this is simply breathtaking and all kinds of inspiring. It has been so fun to see the journey of this coat from all the posts to now.
Stunning. Love the floral appliqués. Really beautiful.
Awesome, this is pass awesome. It is stunning.
well, all of the above, and More! Except, the last photo’s the best in MHO ; it seems to be the coat emerging triumphal from the very heart of creativity, which demands at least a bit of chaos! 🙂 Well done.
Tina in San Diego
I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy!
Enjoy wearing your beautiful, and wonderfully unique trench to all your holiday events!
This trench is simply incredible, both inside and outside, fantastic work.
Oh my goodness .. sheer perfection! Your textile adventures, vision and amazing skills are just WOW. Wear and enjoy with such pride and fulfillment.
~Joy~
I absolutely adore your coat. You’ll look fabulous in it!
Also, REALLY thankful for the button reference. Making a gray coat with leather cogs on it at the mo and that was just the thing I didn’t know I needed. 😀
One Trackback
[…] I used if from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. I’ve made this pattern before here and here. I tried to be careful matching the […]