Luxury for the Trenches

rose-coat-8238

Ta-Daaa! Just in time for the holiday party season, my new trench! I really love it.

The fabric is silk duchesse satin, which is a beautiful fabric to work with. There are many good reasons why silk duchesse satin is a staple of luxury evening wear. It tailors like a dream, you can mold it into all kinds of shapes, and it appears to be lit from within. If you ever see it on a remnant table, snap it up and play with it.

The lining is a silk gazar. It has a nice texture and a nice firm hand, in keeping with the military cut of the coat. I underlined the silk satin with cotton twill.

The pattern is the trench coat pattern from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. I used the same pattern for my raincoat I lengthened it and added godets to the back seams so it looks more feminine. One of my favorite things about this pattern is the armhole and sleeve draft. I almost always raise the armhole and narrow the sleeve in every pattern that I sew, but I did not have to do that for this one. The armhole is nice and high and the sleeve is narrow. I also love the curve of the sleeve, which follows the curve of the arm nicely.

For the rose print, I took some images from the web and poked and prodded them in Photoshop to get an effect that I liked. Then I screen printed them onto the fabric. Some of the flowers are printed directly onto the coat pieces, and some are appliqued on. I used Versatex ink from Dharma, which has an amazing hand. I also printed the motif on the lining in white ink.

For all of the posts I have done about this coat, click here.

back view

back view

I added godets to the pattern for some swing in the back

I added godets to the pattern for some swing in the back

side view.  Note the curve of the sleeve, which makes it comfortable to wear.

side view. Note the curve of the sleeve, which makes it comfortable to wear.

side view

side view

epaulet

epaulet

epaulet.  I could not pick which epaulet photo I liked better, so you have 2.

epaulet. I could not pick which epaulet photo I liked better, so you have 2.

front view, buttoned up all the way

front view, buttoned up all the way

button detail

The metal buttons have a steampunk vibe. I bought them from the Etsy seller Lyanwood.

cuff detail

cuff detail

an appliqued flower next to one that's printed onto the coat fabric.

an appliqued flower next to one that’s printed onto the coat fabric.

godet

godet

inside pocket

inside pocket

Here's the hem.  I underlined the coat with cotton twill, and hemmed the lining by hand.

Here’s the hem. I underlined the coat with cotton twill, and hemmed the lining by hand.

lining

lining

This photo is cluttered, but I like the light

This photo is cluttered, but I like the light

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34 Comments

  1. Posted December 12, 2013 at 1:08 am | Permalink | Reply

    OMG, that is gorgeous! Give yourself a pat on the back.

  2. Dilliander
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 1:19 am | Permalink | Reply

    What an amazing coat! Beautifully made and the swing from the back godet is lovely. I was wondering if you drafted the trench pattern yourself or adjusted a commercial pattern to achieve your inspiration? Enjoy wearing your beautiful coat 🙂

    • Posted December 12, 2013 at 9:13 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I started with a commercial pattern published in Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. The book is in Japanese.

  3. Posted December 12, 2013 at 2:19 am | Permalink | Reply

    That is a beautiful, unique item. I love that you have appliquéd some roses and printed others directly. The white rose on the lining is also lovely.

  4. Posted December 12, 2013 at 2:42 am | Permalink | Reply

    adorable!!!

    xoxo
    blanca

  5. ParisGrrl
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 3:04 am | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous! If you have any remnants remaining, how about a matching bag?

  6. Posted December 12, 2013 at 5:34 am | Permalink | Reply

    Wow, you really have created a beautiful unique garment. Fabulous!

  7. Posted December 12, 2013 at 6:03 am | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful coat! Pat on the back deserved. I hope you get lots of pleasure every time you wear it 🙂

  8. Posted December 12, 2013 at 6:46 am | Permalink | Reply

    Absolutely gorgeous!

  9. Posted December 12, 2013 at 7:31 am | Permalink | Reply

    This is beautiful, and deserves an Oscar for coatmaking 🙂

  10. lifeaworkinprogress.com
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 7:35 am | Permalink | Reply

    I am totally amazed – not just the execution of such perfect item but the imagination and the thoroughness of planning and application to make your imagination reality. Truly, truly amazing!

  11. Posted December 12, 2013 at 7:49 am | Permalink | Reply

    beautiful!

  12. Posted December 12, 2013 at 7:52 am | Permalink | Reply

    awesome! this one is really lovely & so glamorous looking!

  13. Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:04 am | Permalink | Reply

    It is just stunning, Claudine. You are an inspiration!

  14. Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:06 am | Permalink | Reply

    OUTSTANDING in every detail! Very well done!

  15. Blakandblanc
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:13 am | Permalink | Reply

    Brilliant! Oscar worthy…love to see a photo of this beauty being worn.

  16. Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:23 am | Permalink | Reply

    As always, exquisite work.

  17. Sandra Cunningham
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:32 am | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful coat and excellent work! Looks like you purchased it off the Rack!

  18. Rosie
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 9:18 am | Permalink | Reply

    Claudine, you never disappoint! Stunning coat!

  19. Posted December 12, 2013 at 9:48 am | Permalink | Reply

    Simply gorgeous!

  20. Posted December 12, 2013 at 11:05 am | Permalink | Reply

    Wow, this is so amazing. It has the “bells and whistles” of a trench coat and then some!!! Thanks for sharing your button source. They’re fabulous.

  21. Elizabeth
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 11:24 am | Permalink | Reply

    Wow! That is a work of art. What an amazing level of craftsmanship .

  22. Posted December 12, 2013 at 12:03 pm | Permalink | Reply

    that is fantastic and will look great on you. a piece to keep and wear forever.

  23. Posted December 12, 2013 at 12:52 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Claudine, you’ve made a master piece of art again. Love all your detail photos. What a fabulous garment. And I must say, I like the 2nd epaulet photo – it just captures the light and details so very well. You will be the star of your holiday parties in this! I love working with silk duchesse, too, although I rarely see it on remnant tables. And I’ve never even touched silk gazar, so I have no idea of how it handles. I’m surprised at the cotton twill for your underlining. I would have thought that would be too heavy. And that’s why I love your posts – I’m always learning something new. Enjoy your new trench!

  24. Posted December 12, 2013 at 1:15 pm | Permalink | Reply

    *clap, clap, clap* Your coat deserves a standing ovation! It is absolutely marvelous!

  25. carrotflowers
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 2:35 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Oh my, this is simply breathtaking and all kinds of inspiring. It has been so fun to see the journey of this coat from all the posts to now.

  26. Elizabeth
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 6:43 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Stunning. Love the floral appliqués. Really beautiful.

  27. Towanda
    Posted December 12, 2013 at 8:46 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Awesome, this is pass awesome. It is stunning.

  28. tinarathbone
    Posted December 13, 2013 at 1:45 am | Permalink | Reply

    well, all of the above, and More! Except, the last photo’s the best in MHO ; it seems to be the coat emerging triumphal from the very heart of creativity, which demands at least a bit of chaos! 🙂 Well done.
    Tina in San Diego

  29. Posted December 14, 2013 at 8:21 am | Permalink | Reply

    I am not worthy, I am not worthy, I am not worthy!

  30. Posted December 14, 2013 at 9:26 am | Permalink | Reply

    Enjoy wearing your beautiful, and wonderfully unique trench to all your holiday events!

  31. Posted December 16, 2013 at 4:07 am | Permalink | Reply

    This trench is simply incredible, both inside and outside, fantastic work.

  32. Joy
    Posted December 16, 2013 at 3:20 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Oh my goodness .. sheer perfection! Your textile adventures, vision and amazing skills are just WOW. Wear and enjoy with such pride and fulfillment.

    ~Joy~

  33. Posted December 16, 2013 at 7:29 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I absolutely adore your coat. You’ll look fabulous in it!

    Also, REALLY thankful for the button reference. Making a gray coat with leather cogs on it at the mo and that was just the thing I didn’t know I needed. 😀

One Trackback

  1. By Put a Bird on It « Rolling in Cloth on June 6, 2014 at 1:03 am

    […] I used if from Ryuichiro Shimazaki’s coatmaking book. I’ve made this pattern before here and here. I tried to be careful matching the […]

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