Tweed and Satin and Lace, Oh My! (part 2)

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Here we will discuss the jacket portion of our entertainment. I made it with a lovely plaid cashmere, trimmed in silk duchesse satin and lined in silk charmeuse. I’m hoping it turns into my go-to cardigan this winter.

The pattern is a tried-and-true pattern that started out as a commercial pattern, but I have made so many adjustments to it that I should probably just say that I drafted it myself. The thing I like most about it is that it is only 3 pieces (no facings or collars, darted sleeve), so I could cut it out of slightly more than 1 yard of 60″ fabric. Kind of. I actually had so little of this fabric that I ended up having to cut on the cross grain. This cashmere has some give on the straight of grain, so I think it should be OK. I bought the fabric as a remnant, thinking I could make a vest, but I’m so happy that I got a whole cardigan out of it.

The trim is cut from a scrap of duchesse satin that I had lying about. I love duchesse satin for trims because it’s really moldable. With some water and an iron, it can assume seemingly any shape. All of the bindings are straight bias-cut pieces, and they hug the curves really nicely, especially around the neckline. Unfortunately, it is an expensive fabric and it falls apart in the washing machine, so you need to be a bit careful where you use it.

At this point, it has no closures. In the photo above, I pinned it closed. I am planning on adding large snaps, but I did not have any lying about. The next time I get to go to the city, I will buy some and sew them on. For now, I wanted to get the blog post out of the way before I lose enthusiasm for discussing this jacket.

front view of the neck binding

front view of the neck binding

back view of the neck binding

back view of the neck binding

inside out view so you can see the lining

inside out view so you can see the lining

The inside of the binding and the silk lining

The inside of the binding and the silk lining

Cuff detail.  You can also  sort of see the dart on the sleeve.

Cuff detail. You can also sort of see the dart on the sleeve.

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pocked detail.  When I make a jacket like this again, I will cut the pockets a bit larger.

pocked detail. When I make a jacket like this again, I will cut the pockets a bit larger.

cuff detail

cuff detail

inside out view of the back lining

inside out view of the back lining

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8 Comments

  1. Anke
    Posted August 10, 2013 at 2:05 am | Permalink | Reply

    It’s beautiful!

  2. Posted August 10, 2013 at 11:32 am | Permalink | Reply

    what a great jacket for fall, and the satin trim is fantastic, may have to steal that idea. love it, although fall sewng seems very far away to me (thankfully)

  3. Posted August 10, 2013 at 12:44 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Your new jacket/cardigan is lovely. Thank you for sharing the details, and enjoy wearing it!

  4. Posted August 11, 2013 at 12:22 am | Permalink | Reply

    That is a beautiful thing. And I love it with the lace skirt.

  5. Posted August 12, 2013 at 9:06 am | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous and completely unique as always. Wow, it was so great to finally meet you on Saturday. I’ve been a long time lurker, and even though you sew womenswear and I do menswear, I always find inspiration in your projects. That’s just part of the “magic” of the online sewing community. The spark that can launch a new project is oftentimes just a click away. I can’t wait to see what you do with the Japanese trench coat. Cheers!

  6. Posted August 12, 2013 at 9:30 am | Permalink | Reply

    Exquisite work! I love the look of these unlikely fabrics juxtaposed against each other šŸ™‚

  7. Posted August 13, 2013 at 9:04 am | Permalink | Reply

    Lovely jacket. Thank you for showing all the details šŸ™‚

  8. Posted August 21, 2013 at 3:34 pm | Permalink | Reply

    That cuff is gorgeous! The perfect mitred corner! And how you managed to match plaids in a one yard piece I cannot imagine. I assume sorcery is involved. `-)

2 Trackbacks

  1. By Finishing Work « Rolling in Cloth on August 29, 2013 at 1:02 am

    […] finally managed to put the snaps on my cashmere cardigan. I bought them in New York when I attended MPB Day. MPB Day was fabulous, as usual. Even if I had […]

  2. By All About That Weave « Rolling in Cloth on February 3, 2015 at 1:03 am

    […] The body lining, trim, and seam finish is a dark blue necktie silk. The sleeve lining is silk charmeuse. I used a TNT pattern that I also used here. […]

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