Evening Coat Applique

Here’s where I am with my evening coat project. It is made of 2 colors of silk satin, with appliques of the opposing color. The photo above is of the right front piece, which has the appliques placed. I took some photos of the light-colored applique so you can see the process.

I started by drawing the applique on tracing paper, then attaching it to a manila folder with adhesive spray to make it more resilient. Then I cut out the shape. I traced the shape onto my applique fabric and basted it to the partially constructed garment. I cut around part of the applique, finger-pressed the raw edge under, and hand stitched the applique to the garment. If this makes no sense to you, please look at the below photos.

If I had been more careful about scaling the photos, you could flip through them like a flip book! I hope this makes sense.

Here is my stencil that I cut out of manila folder

Applique traced onto the fabric with china marker

Mark the center front with thread tracing

baste onto the right front skirt piece

Close-up of basting. I only basted the parts that will stay on the garment

Cut away 1/4″ from foldline, fold under, stitch.

Use silk thread if you have it.

View from the wrong side. The silk satin is underlined with cotton twill on the bodice and hips and cotton shirting on the skirt

View with the facing pressed to the wrong side

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