Seams on Sheer Fabric

I had a comment on my previous formalwear post asking how I did the seams on the tulle. Here’s a tutorial on how I’m doing the seams for the tulle part of this dress. The photos show the elbow dart, but it’s the same process for a dart or a seam. I learned this method in couture construction class with Professor Rizzo at FIT.

start by stitching along the stitching line, right sides together.

This is how the dart looks when the first line of stitching is in. Take the dart allowance (or seam allowance) and fold it over 1/16″ inside the seam allowance.

After taking the dart allowance and folding it over 1/16″ from the stitching line, stitch again just inside the first line of stitching, to hold the fold in place.

Here’s how it looks after the second row of stitching is done. Now, take scissors and cut off the seam allowance close to the second line of stitching.

cutting off the dart allowance

This is how it looks after the dart allowance is cut off.

Open out and press.

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