Ready for Fall

The weather is starting to be a tiny bit chillier in the morning, so it’s a good time to plan the fall coat. I spend a lot of time walking, so an impressive coat is a great thing to have in the winter. For months at a time, I will be wearing a coat during 70% of my social encounters.

I just love the finished product. One of my favorite things about it is the drastic slope at the shoulder from the collar turnout to the top of the sleeve. That slope makes the shape very modern. You see that slope in current menswear, as well as womenswear.

For a pattern, I used Vogue 1321. It’s one of the new patterns. It is drafted for a melton, and all the directions are for lapped seams. This would totally not work with this boucle, so I just used normal seams. Also, the coat in the pattern is unlined, so I drafted a lining.

The fabric unravels when you look at it, so I took the unusual (for me) step of fusing interfacing to each piece. With the interfacing, it was really easy to sew.

For the lining, I used a silk doubleface douchesse satin that I got for an amazing price a couple of years ago. It feels like heaven. It was a ballet slipper pink color when I bought it, so I spray-dyed it blue near the hem using this technique. The pink with the blue dye effect looks a bit like the sky. I also added some bobbinwork embroidery as an embellishment. I really like an opulent coat lining, since people other then me may actually see the inside of a coat.

Here are some more photos:

I dyed and embroidered the silk lining.

I added some embroidery to the lining at the back near the shoulders. This will look nice when the coat is hanging up.

A Construction Shot! I added horsehair braid to the hem so it would hold its shape. I also fused the whole thing with a lightweight interfacing before I started sewing, which is why the wrong side of the fabric looks black.

side view

back view

side view

another front view

Here’s how it looks unbelted. It’s pretty roomy.

This is the fabric. I unravelled some of it because it’s just so cool.

For more info on the fabric, see this post.

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26 Comments

  1. Shams
    Posted August 22, 2012 at 1:34 am | Permalink | Reply

    Just beautiful, Claudine. That is a very cool fabric.

  2. Posted August 22, 2012 at 2:36 am | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous. I really like the idea of making the lining pretty as well as the outside.

  3. Gail
    Posted August 22, 2012 at 3:06 am | Permalink | Reply

    Fabulous coat – and beautifully made.

  4. Posted August 22, 2012 at 6:01 am | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful Claudine. I also got this pattern. I’m jealous your winter coat is already done. It’s so nice on the inside I’d want everyone to see!

  5. Posted August 22, 2012 at 7:06 am | Permalink | Reply

    Covetousness is bad, so bad. But I really want your coat!!!!

  6. Posted August 22, 2012 at 7:22 am | Permalink | Reply

    It’s gorgeous Claudine. I know that you’ve mentioned that the cold dye you’ve been using for spray dying shifts in color on silk. This doesn’t look like it did that. What did you use? Is this shorter than the original? It really is magnificent.

    • Posted August 22, 2012 at 8:14 am | Permalink | Reply

      Thanks! I used procion dyes from Dharma. They don’t always color shift on silk, and even when they do, they tend to shift within the same color family. In this case, I was going for an effect rather than a specific color, so even if I got a purple or a green, that would have been fine.

  7. Posted August 22, 2012 at 8:03 am | Permalink | Reply

    That is a wonderful wonderful coat! I’m also fascinated by the concept of using horsehair braid in the hem of a winter coat. It looks like it works fabulously with yours.

  8. Posted August 22, 2012 at 10:15 am | Permalink | Reply

    Love, love, love, your coat! The lining is gorgeous, too. You are so creative! Can I have some of that? : ) I have been eying that coat, and it’s great to see it made up so beautifully.

  9. Posted August 22, 2012 at 10:48 am | Permalink | Reply

    That is unbelieveable! The lining is stunning.

  10. Kathryn, aka fzxdoc
    Posted August 22, 2012 at 11:37 am | Permalink | Reply

    This amazing fabric begged to be showcased in a coat design such as you chose and constructed, Claudine. It’s wonderful how you made the lining step up to the plate as well. I like your fearlessness with dyeing. One of these days I’ll think of you and give spray dyeing a try. It looks like great fun.

    • Posted August 22, 2012 at 12:07 pm | Permalink | Reply

      It’s really fun! You should try it. I have the most success with dyeing color on color. Spray dye on white looks messy to me and I don’t like it.

  11. Posted August 22, 2012 at 11:58 am | Permalink | Reply

    oh I just love it!!
    The boucle would be too bulky for me but it will be perfection on your lanky-lovely frame.

  12. Crystal
    Posted August 22, 2012 at 12:51 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Beautiful coat with such a luxurious inside.

  13. J Lynn
    Posted August 22, 2012 at 1:50 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I have to admit to opening my email every day hoping you have posted. You are so talented, not only as a seamstress but also the way you see the design with the fabric. It takes all three to make a good garment. Do you always couture sew or do you ever take short cuts? If you do short cuts where would you use them? I’ve found if I don’t sew my best that I always regret it. It’s like my eye goes to the spot I might have constructed better. Thank you so much for the time you spend blogging. I really appreciate it.

    • Posted August 22, 2012 at 3:14 pm | Permalink | Reply

      Thank you so much! That’s so nice of you to say.

      I consider fusibles to be a big shortcut. If I were going about it the hard way, I would have underlined with cotton batiste and catchstitched the seam allowances to the underlining. This boucle is so loosely woven, though, that I was afraid that it would droop if I did that. I thought about quilting it to an underlining, but decided on the fusible instead. It worked out well. So, yes, I take shortcuts, but only if I think I will still like the result.

  14. Posted August 22, 2012 at 3:01 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Gorgeous! You and your girls are going to be the envy of all come winter.

    I interfaced boucles for a coat once and the one drawback I found was that the boucles lost some of it’s loft/bounce. Did you find that too?

    • Posted August 22, 2012 at 3:14 pm | Permalink | Reply

      This was not really all that lofty. I think the hand actually improved with the fusible.

  15. Posted August 23, 2012 at 10:08 am | Permalink | Reply

    So inspiring! You show what can be made from a labor of love.

  16. Posted August 23, 2012 at 11:21 am | Permalink | Reply

    That’s an absolutely gorgeous coat! I covet it.

  17. Posted August 23, 2012 at 8:14 pm | Permalink | Reply

    lovely! that lining is just to die for :o)

  18. Janice
    Posted August 24, 2012 at 9:10 am | Permalink | Reply

    I love that ombre lining! So gorgeous.

  19. Liana
    Posted August 24, 2012 at 2:56 pm | Permalink | Reply

    Lovely. Isn’t horsehair the greatest thing? You will look smashing all winter.

  20. Posted August 27, 2012 at 3:19 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I can tell I was on vacation because that’s the only way I would have missed this beauty! What a wonderfully constructed, fashionable but totally you coat! I love it!

  21. Posted August 27, 2012 at 6:21 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I love this coat. It is really a fabulous marriage of fabric and style. You have got me thinking…about fabrics and dyeing and various things that I need to start exploring.

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