Dyed Pleated Shirt

This shirt did not turn out quite as I expected, but I like it anyway. I dyed it with a spray bottle of black dye. I used some cardboard to block the spray from covering the whole garment with little dots. I used black dye, but I always forget that procion dyes shift color on silks. I can’t count the number of times I have used procion dyes on silks and been surprised by this. I should probably have used black acid dye and done a more traditional dip-dye to get my ombre effect. Then it would have turned out more black. Dip-dyeing always seems like so much trouble, though, and spray dyeing has really taken hold of my imagination. If you are just joining us, you can check out this post for my spray dye technique.

The fabric is this fantastic pleated silk in a really strange color. It reminds me of nothing so much as the color of makeup that they put on corpses for open-casket funerals. I’ve had the fabric for a while, and always intended to dye it. Then I saw a shirt on tumblr from the brand 3.1 Phillip Lim with a dip-dye effect on the collar and shoulders. I really loved the effect and wanted to emulate it.

The pattern came from an old Burdastyle magazine.

Inspiration shirt

collar detail

side view

back view

The triangle at the hem is in the contrast color



  1. Posted March 3, 2012 at 5:12 pm | Permalink | Reply

    You’ve been achieving some wonderful looks with dye. I applaud your creativity, courage and the results.

  2. Posted March 3, 2012 at 6:40 pm | Permalink | Reply

    I love this! Going back to read the tech post. By the by, this exactly the color panty hose my mother always bought , from now on to be referred to as open casket beige in my mind!

  3. M-C
    Posted March 4, 2012 at 3:09 am | Permalink | Reply

    What makes you think you can’t spray acid dyes? Spray, wrap in Saran wrap, steam to set, done.

    • Posted March 4, 2012 at 9:27 am | Permalink | Reply

      Because of the heat aspect. I thought you had to cook it on the stove to get proper uptake.

  4. Posted March 4, 2012 at 12:08 pm | Permalink | Reply

    The only tricky thing about using acid dyes would be to wrap the shirt in plastic in such a way as to keep the dyed areas separate from the undyed ones so you don’t get any back-staining. You can then steam in a colander over boiling water in a pot with a lid or (as I often do if the piece is small enough) in a dish in a “designated for craft only – not food” microwave.

    You didn’t get the wicking effect of your inspiration blouse because Procion dyes have large molecules so they don’t travel as much as acid dyes. That’s why they work so well with tie-dyes because the colour doesn’t travel under the resist. Also it’s hard to get a really deep colour with Procions on silk unless you use them as if they were an acid dye. The effect you DID get is very lovely though!

    • Posted March 5, 2012 at 9:21 am | Permalink | Reply

      That’s really interesting about the molecules. I never thought about it from that perspective.

  5. Posted March 5, 2012 at 9:10 am | Permalink | Reply

    Love the shirt. I love that you do all these fabric treatments too!

2 Trackbacks

  1. By Me Made May 2012! « Adventures in Couture on May 31, 2012 at 9:04 am

    […] Blouse blogged here: https://couturearts.wordpress.com/2012/03/03/dyed-pleated-shirt/ […]

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