Black Denim Jacket

This is another project that was dictated by the fabric. This black fabric was in a Michael’s bundle. The selvedges are white! I thought they would look just great at trim on a tailored jacket. I think the fabric may be denim, although it is rather lightweight. It is definitely twill. Does anyone know how to identify which twills are actually denim?

The pattern is a Marfy pattern from 2001. I like the kimono sleeve. I seem to have misplaced the pattern when I was tidying up after this project, so I don’t have the pattern number. One thing I really like about Marfy patterns is that they tend to have an appropriate amount of ease. This jacket is very fitted, just like the pattern drawing. I did an LBA because otherwise it would have been too tight across the chest.

To get the selvedge to line up with the pattern piece for the lapel, I wet it under the tap, shaped it like the lapel, then pressed it dry. If I were doing this with a wool, I would spray it with a spray bottle instead of wetting it with the tap.

I Hong-Kong finished all the seams, then topstitched them in place. I ran out of thread in the middle of the project, and most of my sewing room stuff was still en route from London. I live in the burbs here, so there’s nowhere to buy thread that’s convenient. I ended up doing some of the stitching in navy blue. I’m hoping no one will notice.

closeup of the collar. You can see the blue topstitching.

I do my buttonholes by hand.

Jacket inside. You can see the hong kong finish.

Jacket back

This is a negative of the jacket front photo. It’s hard to photograph black, but the negative picks up the details differently. I got this idea from the book “Fashion in Colors”.

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