Bias silk trims

Bias-cut silk is a great fabric to make trims with. Silk in a flat, tight weave works best. Silk taffeta is probably the easiest to use for trim. Silk organza works well. Silk satin works well, too. A spongy or unstable weave like silk crepe or charmeuse will be a little harder to work with. Don’t attempt to make trims with stretch silk. Here are some photos of trims that I’ve made in the past:

This dress has a belt detail of bias cut silk crepe and bias cut tweed.

This jacket has trim made from brown bias cut silk satin, black bias cut silk taffeta, and fashion fabric.

The medallion is made from a bias tube of silk organza.

I’m putting a bias binding on the capes that I’m making for my dd’s. Here are some highlights of the process:
I cut a 3″ bias strip of silk jacquard. It was not quite long enough, so I had to piece it together. When piecing bias, it’s important to piece it along the grainline.

When pressing the seam open, be careful not to stretch the bias. The edges look frayed because that’s how the selvedge is on this fabric.

Fold the strip in half (wrong sides together) and pin it to the right side of the edge of the garment.

If you need to join the piece, cut the end on the grain line, press it under, and overlap the pressed piece.

after machine stitching using a 1/2″ seam allowance, flip the folded bias under to the wrong side of the garment and hand-stitch in place.


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