Jacket with Smocked Sleeves

This jacket is an interpretation of the fall trend for full sleeves and narrow shoulders. You see this a lot in Fall 07, esp in the Lanvin collection. I am also continuing my obsession with smocking, which I find geometrically appealing. I used a linen that I came in a Michael’s bundle. It was a sort of unattractive yellow-camel color, so I dyed it brown in my washing machine. The dye took pretty well; there’s just a small amount of variation, which actually looks nice. The fabric is fairly loosely woven, and my first attempt at smocking did not exactly follow the grain of the fabric. The result just looked like a mess. I did the smocking again, using a grid instead of dots so I could follow the grain line exactly. It worked out much better. The sleeves are smocked at the shoulder and the cuff. The smocking holds in the fullness at the shoulder, and releases it further down the sleeve. I had lots of spare fabric, so I lined the body with self-fabric, and quilted the lining to the shell fabric at the seam lines to hold it in place. This extra layer should keep the wrinkles down. I lined the sleeves with china silk. When I was walking the kids to school early in this project, I was walking behind someone wearing a peplum jacket, and it looked so nice that I added a peplum to my jacket, as well. I drafted the pattern myself. For my next few projects, I think I will follow patterns. Drafting is just too time-consuming.


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